Ban Gioc Waterfalls, when I was in first grade and I turned a dog-eared page in my textbook to reveal a brilliant image of Ban Gioc Waterfalls - and I knew I had to go.
But as the hectic schedule of life would have it, I only got the chance to realise my dream last weekend with a small family troupe packed into the car, my brother-in-law at the wheel.
To get to the falls we had to traverse Ma Phuc Pass. It sounds intimidating but we eased along the stretch of road 20km away from Cao Bang Town quite happily, soaking in the majestic mountain views.
Two hours later we drew up in Trung Khanh District Town, famous for its delicious chestnut speciality. We took a moment to explore the old streets of the little town before turning out onto a quiet and smooth section 26km road leading up the Ban Gioc Waterfalls on the Vietnamese-Chinese border.
It felt like life had suddenly been slowed down - the only sound the distant murmuring of the Quy Son River on the slopes below us, and on the opposite shore delicate stilt houses perched on the mountainside.
We left the car near a border guard station so we could get a good view of the 53m falls before our approach.
It was an astounding sight - the Quy Thuan River cascading 34km over cliffs and crags, knife-edged stones and emerald foliage breaking the dazzling water into three main branches and countless white plumes, spreading a veil of shimmering mist. Looking out along the Hoa (Flowery) Waterfall, we could see long swathes of moss bleeding jade into the cliff-face.
When we arrived the falls were already crowded with visitors, the water below teeming with rafts full of Chinese tourists.
Catching the eye of a local raft owner hanging around on the shore, we asked him for a lift to the falls. But to our disappointment, he refused, saying villagers of the Tay and Nung ethnic groups were celebrating their new rice festival and couldn't work.
But our bad luck lasted only a matter of seconds as local photographer Nong Van Nam approached us wielding his camera.
Instead of a photo, I asked him for the way to the falls and he pointed out a small path winding into the distance.
And so I jumped over the powerful river from rock to rock with a pang of regret that I'd only made it this breath-taking place so late in life.
Still beside us, the photographer offered to show us a way to the very top of the falls. On his rickety little raft we slipped through a chasm in the rock and onto the first tier of the waterfall.
Mingled with the fresh sound of thrashing water were the voices of what I thought must be hundred of tourists. A hint of the real world began to sink in.
"Today the roads are much better, and they even have hotels and restaurants over there," Nam said.
Following his finger, I saw a road snaking along the mountainside, fast cars streaking along it. Must be in good condition, I thought to myself.
At weekends or during summer holidays the falls can attract hundreds of visitors, Nam told me, adding he could earn as much as VND500,000-600,000 a day by taking their photos.
But Ban Gioc Waterfalls aren't the only attraction in the area. Only three kilometres away there's Nguom Ngao Cave, locally known as Tiger Cave, a sight, framed with its spectacular stalagmites and stalactites.
The cave is about 2,144m long and about 60m at its highest, including the three main gates Nguom Lom, Nguom Ngao and Ban Thuon, according to measurements recorded by the British Royal Cave Association in 1995.
Our tour guide Nong Thi Tien, told us there is a three-km road inside the cave to Ban Gioc Waterfalls. She asked us if we would willing to go there for an interesting venture, but what a pity, our times were very limited.
Tapping into the cave's popularity, local authorities have upgraded the surrounding roads and set up lighting in the cave to guide visitors through whilst showing off the cave's best features.
Together, Ban Gioc Waterfalls and the Nguom Ngao Cave attract thousands of local and foreign tourists visit every year, according to Luc Van Khoan, head of the Cao Bang Tourism Department's Management Office of Tourism.
I for one think everyone should see these places - even just for the percean quiet you can take home with you. But this time I know I won't be waiting a lifetime before I make my second visit.
(Source: Viet Nam News)
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